Tie one end of the main sheet to the left end of the trailer side rail. Pass the line over the boat and take 2 wraps around the mast and tie the line tightly to the other trailer rail. Be sure that the mast is positioned far enough to one side so that it does not chafe against the mast support post. Tie the end of the trailer winch rope to the bow eye with a bowline knot and winch the bow snugly into the rubber bow support. If you have a mast carrier, bolt the mast to the crutch tightly to avoid vibration damage to the mast. Tie a line around the middle of the mast and secure to the jib cleats. The keel should be lowered onto the rubber V block to relieve unnecessary strain on the hull. Carefully store or secure all lines, halyards and shrouds to avoid entanglement in the trailer wheels while towing. Check light connections and attach the safety chains to the car.

For extremely shallow ramps, back the trailer until the wheels are near the water. Place chocks behind both wheels. Tie a length of 3/6" line to the skid plate at the nose of the trailer. Allow 12-15 feet of slack and tie the line to the car. Disconnect the trailer from the car and drive forward until the line is tight. Remove the chocks and allow the trailer to back into the water until the boat floats free. Reverse the process to retrieve the boat. Make sure the boat sits squarely on the trailer before hauling.

Before hauling the boat out of the water, winch the bow securely to the trailer to prevent the boat from sliding backwards off the trailer.

When the boat is launched for the first time, check for leakage around the lower pivot bolt. The nut should be tightened securely enough to stop all leakage but not so tight as to damage the rubber or fiber washers. Check for leakage around the drain tube bolt and hose clamps.

The boat is self righting only with the keel locked down. The lock bolt will assure that the keel angle is proper, and that the keel stays down in the event of a severe knockdown.

To eliminate vibration from the keel cable, allow a few inches of slack in the cable after the keel is locked down.

If you are sailing in shallow water, where you can reasonably expect to hit bottom, install the lock in the top hole before lowering the keel. Then lower the keel until it comes to rest against the bolt. Since the lock bolt now does not pass through the keel, it will wing back if you hit bottom. However, if a severe knockdown is taken, bear in mind that the keel may swing back up against the hull. Caution should be exercised while sailing with the keel positioned in this manner.

To raise the keel, crank the handle until the keel just touches the hull. When resistance is felt, stop cranking.

Downhaul

The downhaul )6' poly line) passes through the 3/8" hole in the base of the mast. Tie a knot in the line, on the inside of the mast, to keep the downhaul from pulling loose.

Main halyard

The main halyard passes through the cheek block at the mast head and ties off to the cleat on the starboard side of the mast. Tie a twist pin shackle (with a bowline) to aft end of the halyard.

Jib halyard

The jib halyard passes through the block near the top of the forestay and ties off to the cleat on the port side of the mast. Tie a twist pin shackle (with a bowline) to the aft end of the halyard.

Masthead rigging V-21

Upper shrouds and masthead stay attach to the mast in the same manner as the standard shrouds, except that the attachment bolt passes through the 2/8" hole 1"down from the masthead. Use 1/4" turnbuckles on masthead stay and upper shrouds.

Backstay V-21

The genoa halyard passes through the block near the top of the masthead stay. and ties off to the upper cleat on the port side of the mast. Attach a twist pin shackle to the forward end of the halyard.

Genoa halyard;, V-17, V-22, V-24

Use the same halyard as the standard jib.

Spinnaker halyard, V-21

The spinnaker halyard passes through a second block hung beside the genoa halyard block.

Lay the mast on top of the boat with the mast base forward.

Attach the turnbuckles to the chainplates.

Attach the mast to the slot in the hinged step with the 3/8" bolt and nut (if the boat does not have a hinge, it will be necessary for one of the crew to hold the base of the mast as it is raised.).

Make sure that the shrouds are mot entangled on the boat or trailer. and then raise the mast. The task is made easier if a second person stand on the foredeck and pulls on the forestay as the mast goes up. Connect the stay adjuster to the eye on the foredeck.

Do not release forward pressure on the mast until the forestay is connected to the foredeck eye.

Adjust the turnbuckles and forestay to set the mast at right angles to the waterline. Important: Install the cotterpins on turnbuckles to assure that the turnbuckles do not rotate loose. Rigging should be set reasonably tight. Make sure all cotter pins are folded over. The mast is lowered by reversing the above process.

Mainsheet, V-17

Attach the swivel block to the boom end tang with the small shackle. Run the mainsheet through the swivel cam cleat eye, through the block on the boom, and tie the end to the deck eye on the opposite side of the boat.

Mainsheet, V-21, V-22, V-24

Attach the double block to the boom end tang with the small shackle. Run the mainsheet through the swivel cam cleat eye, through the forward pulley in the double block on the boom, through the pulley on the starboard rail, back through the aft pulley in the double block on the boom, and tie the end to the deck eye just aft of the swivel cam cleat.

Mainsail:

When raising the mainsail, pull the sail up until the head of the sail is as close to the top as possible. then pull down on the boom with the downhaul line just tight enough to remove all slack from the leading edge of the sail. The Cunningham hole (a brass thimble about 9" above the boom) may be used to adjust the sail for different wind conditions. For light winds, and for sailing downwind, the sail is made with a fullness in the middle of the sail and along the boom. For strong winds, pass a line through the Cunningham hole and around the boom an pull tight to stretch the leading edge of the sail. Pull the boom outhaul line tight to stretch the base of the sail. This serves to flatten the fullness of the sail for better performance in strong winds.

Jib sheets:

Jib tack

A twist pin shackle fastens the jib tack to the eye at the bottom of the forestay.

Roller furling:

The standard goose neck fitting will serve as a simple roller reefing system, To reef the main, remove the retaining pin (A) from the goose neck slide and lift out the pivot pin (B). Roll the mainsail on the boom and reinstall the pivot pin and retaining pin. When tolling the main, make sure that the sail rolls tightly on the boom at the forward end of the boom. Remove the lower batten to avoid breaking it as the sail is rolled on the boom. It is also possible to reef by removing the goose neck slide from the mast. rolling the sail, and re-inserting the slide in the mast slot.

Make sure that the rudder lock cotter pin is in position to hold the rudder in place when sailing.

Spinnaker Sheets:

Spinnaker sheets lead aft to the eyes near the stern of the boat, and then forward to the cleats.

Foreguy:

Tie a twist pin shackle to the foreguy. The shackle connects to the forward end of the spinnaker pole. The foreguy leads downward thrum the eye on the deck (36" aft of the bow), back through the eye at the forward starboard corner of the cabin top, to the cleat starboard of the jib sheet cleat.

Topping lift:

Tie a twist pin shackle to the topping lift. The shackle connects to the strap on the pole. The topping lift leads upward to the eye on the mast 10' above the deck. down to the eye on the forward port corner of the cabin top, and back to the cleat to port of the jib sheet cleat.

Self tending jib boom, V-22, V-24:

Install the boom and hardware as shown on the drawing. Attach 2" of poly line to the jib clew with a bowline and pass the line through the pad eye on the boom end and tie to the cleat. The jib sheet goes through the swivel block on the boom and through the nylon fairleads on the cabin top and then to the jib sheet cleats,